The reverse of a question I asked on here a while ago.
Steam Deck
Basically every Valve product and software.
One of the only brands I would ever promote, Darn Tough socks.
Wear em out, ship them back, order a free pair. It’s that easy and they are the most comfortable, durable socks I have ever worn. Won’t ever buy another brand.
Do you use those for everyday wear?
Not op. Yes.
Also not OP.
Also yes.
Thirdly not op. Prefer them over any of my other sock-tions.
Also also yes
Fourth not OP. Wear them in my work boots every day, even when it’s hot as shit.
Fifth not OP. I do not wear them everyday. But that’s mainly because I don’t own a pair.
Bone conduction headphones
Really? I’ve been dubious of these but…if true…
They are fantastic for spoken audio like audiobooks and podcasts by themselves, if you’re using them in combination with earplugs they work a lot better for music because you get the low bass sounds that you would miss without the ear plugs.
Have a recommended brand or style?
I use whatever the premium Shokz product was 4 years ago. They have a new model that’s supposed to have better sound quality. I think it’s the open run pro 2. That’s what I’d get if I were buying another pair
Wood glue, no particular brand recommendations, is one of the pew products I trust to do exactly what it claims to - glue wood.
Titebond 3. It’s a pretty easy choice; it has one of, if not the highest strengths of wood glues on the market, and it’s water resistant. If you want the wood to break before the glue does, that’s the stuff you want.
That is usually what I go with, because I normally only keep one bottle of wood glue around and it covers pretty much any use case I could ever have for wood glue being waterproof, safe for indirect food contact, etc.
But honestly, for general gluing furniture together and such, even the cheapest no-name brands of wood glue have always done just fine. Pretty much any wood glue out there is stronger than any wood you’re likely getting the be gluing (inb4 some carpentry nerd chimes in with some rare wood that only grows in New Zealand or something that is stronger than steel or something)
I’ve seen plenty of bonds on furniture fail, rather than the wood. It seems most typical on things that are a dowelled construction rather than a mortise and tenon joint. I’ve seen it most often with chairs, since they’re under a lot of stresses. Maybe I’m in a uniquely bad environment that’s harsh on wood glue; I don’t know.
Chairs, like wooden dining room chairs, are some of the most dynamically stressed woodworking projects. A bookcase may carry hundreds of pounds of books but you put the books on the shelf and they mostly just stay there. A dining room chair has people sitting down, scooting forward, shifting around, leaning back, standing up etc. so there’s a lot of force moving around trying to bend the frame members and shift the tenons around in their mortises. This often causes the glue, or the wood immediately around it, to fracture under repetitive stress and causes loose joints.
Some woodworkers prefer to use hide glue (or its modern synthetic equivalent) rather than PVA glue specifically because it isn’t as strong, and because the bond can be released with heat. That allows the glue to fail while the wood itself remains intact, and then a chair with a failed joint can be disassembled and repaired. A chair assembled with PVA is likely to break in the middle of a board or dowel and is impossible to disassemble in any intentional way.
I wonder if there is any bad wood glue out there. I use it quite a bit and I don’t think i ever used the same brand twice.
For some reason I have a thought in my head that I don’t like Elmer’s wood glue. I don’t know why, I don’t remember it ever letting me down.
White Elmer’s glue is pretty much the same formula as their “washable” school glue. It bonds wood quite strongly but it tends to be slimier than wood glue so when you go to clamp the boards together they tend to slip around out of orientation. It’s not as fun to work with as yellow carpenter’s glues which tend to be tackier so the boards don’t slip around as much.
Head-On CAN be appied directly to the forehead! Which was it’s only claim.
Timex: Takes a licking and keeps on ticking.
I licked my watch when I was a kid and it kept on ticking.
people with really wide toes:
my 260 euros hiking shoes with extra wide toebox. i had size ten. with these shoes i have size 8.5 (i had to go longer, so i got more widht to fit my toes)
no pain anymore, no more infected nail beds. best shoes i ever had. model innsbruck
My mom bought my backpack 25 years ago and the clerk told her “they’ll last for at least five years”.
Well I still use mine daily, so yeah. Definitely lived up to expectations. Although I’ve did get it fixed, but first time just a year or two ago. So lasted without any fixing for longer than the average age on Lemmy, I’d say.
What brand?
Sorry forgot to reply. Hedgren, it’s called.
But idk if their current products reflect that level of durability.
My MacBook air… Apple bad and all, but the battery life and (CPU) performance meet the claims…
Yes, Apple have become a steaming tower of shitheads, but fuck me, their hardware is (generally) incredibly well built.
I have a 2011 13” MacBook Pro that I bumped up to 16gb RAM, and replaced the DVD drive with a second hard drive. I had it running Sonoma through OCLP until a few weeks ago when I threw Linux Mint on it. Damn thing won’t die. Same for the 2011 and 2014 Macs mini that I also use regularly. I also have a 15” M2 Air, which is legitimately the best computer I’ve ever owned. I don’t imagine I’ll get the same life out of that, not with macOS at least. Asahi Linux seems to be very, very promising though.